Off
to Liverpool again today, to have another crack at the new Museum of
Liverpool. This is housed is an ultra modern building on the city's
waterfront, right next to the Three Graces. Beside these, it looks
even uglier than it would alone but, hey, this is progress.
The
first thing I note is that, in contrast to last time, there are no Welcome leaflets in Spanish. There's a stack of them in Arabic and
almost as many in French. Followed by smaller quantities in three
other languages. But not a page in Castellano. I begin to worry that
they've all been taken by a horde of Iberian visitors who've invaded the place.
But
the only foreigners I meet are a couple of Scandinavians(?) who are
swathed in Liverpool FC regalia and who've presumably come over to
watch this evening's FA Cup Final in one of the city's pubs.
The
first thing that strikes me in the section on Liverpool as a Trading
City is that it's unremittingly critical of the sources of the city's
18th and 19th century's great wealth. All well merited, I guess, but not
balanced by anything else. After a while, I felt as if I'd read several copies of The
Guardian from back to front. And the question occurred - If the
museum is so unhappy about the provenance of the trophies it has on
display, why not send them back? Anyway, it was good to see a bit of
even-handedness - "Spanish and Portuguese exploration in South
America brought unmitigated disaster to the indigenous peoples."
The
most interesting fact to emerge was that, scenting opportunities in
China, a Basque family called Larringa had moved to Liverpool in
the 1850s and established a successful shipping company there.
The
second most interesting fact was that Valencia St. in Liverpool is
named after the city from which the street's most prominent resident
had imported oranges.
Finally
. . . I was intrigued to be reminded that Liverpool, because of the
importance of the cotton trade, had supported the South in the
American civil war. And to learn that the last act of that war had
taken place in the river Mersey, when the CSS Shenandoah had
surrendered to the British government. A long way from the boat's base in New Orleans.
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