Referring to one of the numerous 'nationalist´{i. e. tribalist] developments of modern Spain, a French friend asked me today - "How can Spaniards expect the rest of us to like them when they don't even like each other?" A rather good question, I thought.

I'm back in Madrid and took the opportunity this evening to take a second look at the Chema Madoz photography exhibition. Entry to this is free but, nonetheless, you are given a 4 x 3 inch piece of paper as you go in. This has a number on it but there are surely far easier and cheaper ways of counting the number of visitors than giving each of them a pointless pre-printed ticket. Especially when you ignore the stipulation on the ticket that visitors will only be allowed entry after presentation of their identity card. Only in Spain?

On a similar note - I see the Spanish government wants a reference to the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht written into the new constitution being negotiated by the UK government with Gibraltar. Is there any other county in Europe where reference is made so frequently to events of hundreds of years ago? And will Spain ever stop living in the divided past and dedicate itself to a united future? Please write on only one side of the paper.