Dawn

Dawn

Friday, August 22, 2008

All about Galicia today . . . .

If you're on vacation here, you might like to take part in the new non-Olympic sport of Find the Cocaine. Following last week's chase of the speedboat eventually abandoned on La Lanzada beach, there are said to be 1,000 kilos of the stuff in the Ria of Pontevedra, in small packets of one kilo each. I wondered why I'd seen more swimmers than usual braving the 18 degree water.

Police action against Pontevedra's brothels is said to have been so successful recently that the number of private flats providing similar services - called pisos de contactos - has more than doubled, to take a 40% market share. Across the river here in Columbus's birthplace, Poio, the three brothels along the main road appear to be thriving despite whatever police pressure has been applied. Though two of them have have to go to the trouble of changing their names, as is the way of things here.

Astonishingly, only 0.3% of people travelling from Pontevedra to Madrid do so by train. Possibly because it still takes the same 7-10 hours it has done for decades. They must all use the night train, as it's always full when I go to Madrid. In absolute terms, train passenger numbers have fallen from 67,000 a year ten years ago to 3,000 now. Roll on the high speed AVE. Due to arrive at platform 1 between 2012 and 2018. Depending on whether you believe the politicians up for re-election or more objective observers.

Anyone who's been reading the Comments and who's developed an interest in learning Gallego might like to know about the Galicia 21 magazine being launched by Bangor University. It says this will be in autumn 2008 but I fancy the last time I checked there was an earlier date. So patience may be needed.

Logically enough, here in Pontevedra more and more shops are closing down, as the recession looms. This afternoon I passed an old 'Everything for 100 pesetas' store with a closure notice on the window. Likewise the town's equivalent of Habitat, Casa. That said, a place which used to be a toy shop has just re-emerged as yet another upmarket dress shop. It's an ill wind that blows no good. And black money has to be laundered somehow.

Occupancy rates here in Pontevedra are said to be 20% down on last August's. For those who've been staying in the picturesque fishing port of Combarro along the coast from me, it can't have been a great week below the clouds and among the overflowing bins of the tiny place's numerous seafood restaurants. I don't suppose it'll be a great surprise if some of them don't come back next year. I wonder if the strikers gave this any thought.

I had to go into town early this morning to get some migraine tablets for my newly-arrived daughter. Leaving the underground car-park after only 14 minutes, I was surprised - now that we have by-the-minute parking - to be asked for 80 centimos. The other strange thing was that the machine first told me my ticket was unreadable. Driving home - and showing just how Spanish I've become - I put these together and thought "The bastards have found a way to get round the new law. I bet the 80 centimos is a fixed charge for 'unreadable' tickets" of less than an hour's duration. To be checked!

Meanwhile. contrary to all forecasts, today has been gloriously sunny down here in the Riaxas Baixas. My daughter - who says she hasn't seen the sun in over 3 weeks in the UK - is ecstatic. Ryan is quite pleased too. A mi, no me importa tanto.

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