Spain's savings banks - the cajas [or caixas here in Galicia] - have always been a bit of a mystery to me. My dealings with the tax office - by which I mean the regional Facenda and not the national Hacienda - have shown me that there's something of a favoured relationship between the Xunta and at least one of our caixas but I'm grateful to Charles Butler for an amusing insight into the origins and operations of these [pseudo?]banks. And I have, belatedly, added a link to his Ibex Salad site.

It's commonplace to say that, by the time Franco shuffled off this mortal coil in 1976, Spain was 30 or 40 years culturally adrift from even its closest neighbours in Europe. In many ways, though, Spain has not just caught up since then but sped* past. That said, in a race-sensitive world, you almost have to laugh at how naive the Spanish can be. I've said several times that the fundamental Spanish attitude is that one can't possibly be racist if it was all just a bit of a joke and there was no intention whatsoever to upset the person who's nonetheless demonstrably upset. Which used to be the traditional English defence against Irish jokes, of course. And now we have the latest example of this in the ad featured in this Guardian article. I can guarantee, firstly, that no one involved intended to insult the Chinese; secondly, that they'll be astonished at any criticism; thirdly, that it will all be defended as humour; fourthly, that the Spanish will be genuinely miffed at the suggestion they're racist; and, finally, that it'll be implied that, if anyone really is upset, then [like Arsenal's Henry] it's their problem, not that of the Spanish perpetrators.**

* I originally wrote 'raced past' but, after reading it several times finally realised why it didn't feel right . . . .

** It gets worse. Since I wrote this, I've learned that we're now expected to see this as a 'respectful' tribute to the Chinese. Cynical or just very, very stupid?

Galicia

I said the other day that parts of Pontevedra were a mess. This is not strictly true; parts of the old quarter are an almighty mess. And have been for some time. I'm not sure whether anyone cares much - resident or tourist - but here are some illustrative pix taken around and near one of the main attractions - the basilica of Santa Maria la Mayor. I know the quality of the workmanship is high and I'm sure things will eventually look wonderful. But, my God, is it taking time!

This one is of the spot very close to the basilica where the botellón used to begin:-


And here's what faces you if you want to go down the side of the basilica or to visit the tapas bar just on the left. Believe me, it's been a lot worse than this. At a time when the poor owner of the bar has been trying to sell it!


The front of the basilica


And down the other side


This is where they've yet to finish re-paving the main route to the the basilica from the town centre


Behind these pipes lies the little ex Jewish cemetery I mentioned last week


And this - would you believe? - is the entrance to the Rias Baixas Tourist Board offices.


Here's what it looks like behind the town hall

And down one side of it


Nicer pix tomorrow.