The
cretinous selfie craze just got worse, in the UK at least. Drivers
are taking them at the wheel. Which
reminds me . . . A truck driver yesterday waved his apologies as he
almost drove me down in the middle of a zebra crossing. In his other
hand, of course, was his mobile phone. Nowt as daft as folk, as we
say oop north.
Corruption:
The Spanish ex-head of the IMF has now been formally charged with 3 'serious' financial crimes. He was caught by the favourite trick of the
Tax Office here - an 'amnesty' for minor transgressions. His bail is €18m.
And then there's the Energy Secretary of the Andalucian Junta who's
resigned after being collared for improperly taking an electric feed
for his (illegal) home. You couldn't make it up.
On a
lighter note . . . HT to Lenox of Business over Tapas for the latest
Spanglish phrase: Off de record. As he says, risible.
Would you
like to live in a place where dogs and cats had the same rights as you? If so, move to the Spanish town of Trigueros del Valle where this has
just been instituted. Animal charities, needless to say, hail the
bizarre move and hope it'll be introduced across Spain. Let's give
the vote to the oyster, say I.
And
talking of people . . . Aren't food tastes odd? Someone wrote
yesterday of her impossibility of being in the same building as
ginger. I, on the other hand, adore this root but have a similar
problem with cucumber. And I don't like cheeses that taste of, well,
cheese. Some have no flavour, of course, and I can tolerate these. On
food . . . at the end of this post is an excellent answer to the eternal
question - What is the point of salad?
Finally .
. . The latest irritation from Facebook is Related Posts on your
page that you can't get rid of. The answer is F.B. Purity, a free app
which prevents the "related content" pop-ups.
There is a
basic principle that salad offends: food is nicer when it has been
cooked.
What on
earth is the point of salad? I've never liked it, which is a problem
in our house, because my wife not only loves it, but is also
something of an expert on it. She travels the country lecturing large
groups of beautifully attired ladies on the virtues of Mizuna and
Lettuce "Reine de Glace", recommending Buckler-leaf sorrel
and a kind of coriander called, tragically, "Leisure" as
the essential ingredients with which to make their salads - and lives
- perfect.
Even after
years of indoctrination, I remain indifferent. There is a basic
principle that salad offends: food is nicer cooked. Cooking, in fact,
is what makes food edible, not in some boring physiological
maiden-aunt sense that boiled carrots are more easily digested, but
something subtler than that. Cooking is one of the things, like
farming, gardening, hunting and fishing, that connects us to the rest
of the world. Cooking, an anthropologist would say, is the great
mediator. It makes the world friendly and accommodates the wild.
Human society has always gathered around the bubbling pot.
Sauce is
the essence of civilisation.
Inevitably,
then, rawness is a kind of hostility, the tabletop equivalent of a
nudist colony. These strange, uncooked naked bodies come at you
unadorned and untransformed, emerging shockingly from the
undergrowth, unapologetic in their flagrant and bushy nakedness,
lying there in front of you as though it were up to you to make the
social running. Which, of course, is not on: food, of all things,
should not be rude.
Salad,
like 99%t of naked bodies, is in that way deeply disturbing. We all
know that what makes bodies beautiful are clothes, that what turns
Botticelli's Primavera into such an entrancing figure is not only her
long, pale, reticent, almond-shaped face, but her soft, wind-blown,
wafting dress that sweeps around her. Leighton, the most gifted of
all English painters of the human figure, used to paint his models
nude and then clothe them on the canvas, painting on those marvellous
fabrics, bringing about a kind of transformational beauty, the
acculturating opposite of the striptease.
Beauty is
dressed and cooked.
Of course
none of us thought like that when we were 19. Nakedness, the
unadorned reality, was what loveliness was in those long forgotten
days. And if we all somehow stayed 19, in a sort of permanently
Botoxed world, no doubt that is what we would still think. But we
don't. We are 47 and might as well admit it.
It's an
odd phrase, "to dress a salad", but an acute one. Oil and
vinegar are there to hide the realities. To dress a salad is to cook
it, that mixture of sharpness and oiliness the transforming opposite
of the awful greeny crunchy natural qualities of the unadorned
leaves. I will admit that I love salad dressing and that, if lettuce
has been drowning in it for 24 hours, so that not a fibre of its
crunch remains, that is something I find irresistible. [Very true].
The entire
history of Western civilisation in the past 500 years doesn't agree
with me. The modern world has witnessed the triumph of the salad. The
Middle Ages didn't like it much. A cook book of c.1500 warned that
"green salads and raw fruit will make you sovereign sick",
but from the late 16th century onwards, salads started their
inexorable rise. Capitalism, empire, the triumph of the Royal Navy,
the growth of cities, commerce, literacy, curtains in houses, the
Industrial Revolution and universal suffrage all stimulated the
growth of the salad. The more sophisticated people became, the more
they longed for the taste of the raw.
The salad
is a symptom of dysfunction, of people who are increasingly divorced
from natural processes but increasingly longing to get back to a bit
of nature by eating it. You don't find much salad in a farmhouse.
Farmhouse lunches are comprehensively cooked, with nature properly
held at bay outside in the woods and fields. Salad thrives in urban,
commercial, modern, deracinated places, where the most elegant form
that sophistication can take is the pretence at denying it.
But a
crashing irony about the salad obsession of the industrialised West
is now coming to light. As Felicity Lawrence has described in Not on
the Label, her book on the global food production system, the
pre-washed salads that everyone now buys in supermarkets are some of
the most industrialised and poisonous foods available, often produced
using savagely exploited labour. Salad
leaves drenched in chlorine, deprived because of the way in which
they are packed of much of their goodness, imported from the hideous
poly-tunnel cities of southern Spain, where migrant African workers
survive virtually enslaved: all of this is what the hunger for
lovely, available, bright-green, washed rawness-in-a-bag now feeds
off.
It's
disgusting and pathetic in equal measure. McDonald's, on the run from
the criticisms in Eric Schlosser's Fast Food Nation, has now turned
itself into something like a salad bar. But that's not the place to
end up either. The modern commercially grown salads are a lie. What's
the answer? Free allotments for all? The Health Department promoting
Grow-Your-Own? Perhaps one day. At least it would be good to hear of
a belief in government that these things matter.
Lenox: You're welcome to quote this in next week's BoT. . .
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