Spanish
Frustration: On Saturday I formed a queue behind a chap at an ATM,
where he'd been a minute or two already. He then proceeded – over 5
minutes or more - to take out money via 4 or 5 cards, as far as I
could tell. So, either a good person to mug or to report to the
police. Or both. In that order.
Those
Arrested Gypsies: It's emerged they've been charging every market
stall-holder in the region €150 a month, to go towards 'national'
gypsy expenditure, taxes and social security payments. Needless to
say, the latter two didn't happen. But did anyone really expect that
they would? No wonder the head of the clan lives in a massive mansion
down near the border with Portugal.
Which
reminds me . . .
Our
Narco Barons: These are not exactly anonymous. A local paper this
weekend gave us details not only of their names – which everyone
knows – but also of the expensive properties they either live in or
have invested in. I'm told that in Vilagarcia you can have a guided
tour of these. Well, from the outside at least. As I said recently, I
sometimes feel I must be Alice.
That
Spanish Minister with a Company in Panama: It's reported he was
“Arrogant and difficult to deal with.” My guess is they've been
waiting some time for a chance to get shut of him. But that could
just be my natural cynicism.
TheVatican
and Refugees: My thanks to those readers who pointed out my comments
had had immediate effect. Within hours, the Pope had decided to take a
dozen back home. My guess is they'll all be living in the notoriously
large and plush flat of his no. 2. Who'll doubtless be delighted to
welcome them in.
Famous
Literary Chaps: This year is the 400th anniversary of the death of
both William Shakespeare and Miguel Cervantes. Some Spaniards are not
at all happy about the comparison between how the former is being
feted around the world and how the latter is being remembered even here in
Spain. But, anyway, at the end of this post is a nice article on
Cervantes and his Don Quijote from Prospect magazine.
Teeth-cleaning:
There are fashions in just about everything. So, during a dental
check-up last week, I wasn't too surprised when the dentist produced
a large model tooth and an equally large brush and proceeded to tell me
that, nowadays, it's considered best to essentially frotteurise your
teeth. No violent upping and downing to strengthen the gums,
for example. I was less surprised that the dentist took me seriously
when I asked if I could buy the huge brush. British humour, eh. You just can't beat it . . .
Galician
Weather: It comes as no great pleasure to report that March was the
coldest month here for 30 years and the wettest for 12 years. Maybe
that explains my late daffodils. Though the UK has suffered much the
same, I think.
Finally
. . . Coppers. And how to treat them. Here in Spain, if you take a
foto of a policeman, you're likely to be charged under the so-called
Gag Law, which actually goes under the Orwellian name of The Citizen
Protection Law. Diligent reader, Perry, has sent me this link, to
show us how different things are in the UK.
Don Quixote and the
invention of doubt
He was the first
European character who questioned his own motives. By Miranda France
Honouring national
heroes may not come easily to the British, but the 400th anniversary
of William Shakespeare’s death on 23rd April is surely one day when
we can kick up our heels and sing “Hey Nonny” without shame.
There is no other Briton of whom we can feel so straightforwardly
proud. Whatever doubts hang over the details of Shakespeare’s life,
few question the genius of the work nor the way it has enriched our
language and culture. (See this issue’s “The way we were”.)
For Miguel de Cervantes
Saavedra, who died on 22nd April 1616, the Spanish celebration will
be more muted. Last year, forensic scientists proved that bone
fragments buried at the Convent of the Barefoot Trinitarians in
Madrid belonged to Cervantes, a discovery that might have given a
fillip to this year’s commemoration. But the 2016 programme has
come together late and grudgingly.
Arguably, it’s easier to
celebrate plays, which are performed in public, than novels, which
are enjoyed alone. Besides, Spain has already had to make merry over
Cervantes twice in just over a decade. In 2005, the 400th anniversary
of the publication of the first part of Don Quixote was marked by a
48-hour reading. Celebrities, children and politicians took turns to
read, with fishermen joining in from their boats, and prisoners from
their cells. Soldiers were given free copies to take on tours of
duty, and were perhaps not grateful for the extra luggage (my copy
weighs half a kilo). Last year, the 1615 publication of the novel’s
second part was fêted with exhibitions, lectures, theatre
performances and a new version in modern Spanish by poet Andrés
Trapiello. His “dumbed-down” version inevitably drew criticism,
but it went to number nine in the Spanish bestseller chart—just
below Fifty Shades of Grey.
Nevertheless, with no
official events announced until February, the commission charged with
this year’s programme has been accused of dragging its feet. Darío
Villanueva, Director of the Royal Academy of the Spanish Language,
confessed to feeling twitchy about British plans for a Shakespeare
“offensive” in 140 countries, “with all the power for global
penetration that the British government has.” Javier Cercas, a
novelist and professor of Spanish literature, has accused his
country’s government of a contempt comparable to that meted out to
Cervantes during his life. “I’ve often wondered whether we
Spaniards really deserve Cervantes. Now I know that we don’t. In
fact, let the English have him.” The newspaper El País seemed to
agree, predicting a year of “mucho Shakespeare y poco Cervantes.”
But José María Lassalle, the Secretary of State for Culture, shot
back, declaring that his commission was planning something “more
modern” than the British, without letting on what that was. We
could have been back in the 1600s, sizing up each other’s galleons.
“Cervantes
shows compassion towards a Muslim character who has been forced to
convert and is expelled”
Spain’s relationship
with its greatest writer is complicated, perhaps because his
masterpiece, Don Quixote, has so often been held up as a mirror to
the national psyche and returned an ambiguous reflection. If
Cervantes meant his famous creation to represent the Spaniards, they
are idealistic, courageous, obstinate, foolhardy fantasists. He never
said he did mean that, but the novel’s unique position makes it
irresistible to interpretation, driving successive generations to
search for new truths within it.
Contemporary readers
find particular meaning in the compassion shown towards a Muslim
character who has been first made to convert by the Inquisition, and
then expelled from Spain—as all Muslim converts were, in 1609. Last
year, Spain offered citizenship to the descendants of Sephardic Jews
expelled in 1492, but the offer wasn’t extended to the descendants
of expelled Muslims. Meanwhile residents of the village Castrillo
Matajudíos (“Kill Jews Camp”) voted to change the name, but
Valle de Matamoros (“Kill Moors Valley”) has yet to follow suit.
What would Cervantes say?
For the Spanish writer
Sergio del Molino, it’s time to let Don Quixote be simply a book.
“Its sacred, official status demands that anyone thinking about
Spain from any intellectual or artistic perspective do so through the
filter of Quixote. It’s the source of a lot of misunderstandings
and problems.”
Part of the reason is
timing: Don Quixote appeared at the moment the Spanish empire began
to decline under Philip II’s paranoid reign and seemed to describe
the flaws that would bring about its downfall. Over the next three
centuries Spain lived off the New World, then lost it. Spain’s
defeat in the last colony, Cuba, in 1898, prompted writers including
Miguel de Unamuno to identify “Quixotry” as both the reason for
the empire’s collapse, and the key to their country’s revival.
The same mad bravery that propelled Christopher Columbus, Francisco
Pizarro and Hernán Cortés across the Atlantic had also brought
Spain to its knees. That dichotomy continued into the 20th century,
with both sides in the Civil War claiming that they were fighting for
“Cervantes’s Spain.”
For non-Spanish
readers, Don Quixote is essentially a very long novel about an
impoverished country gentleman, Alonso Quixano, who loses his mind
after reading too many chivalric romances. Styling himself “Don
Quixote,” he sets off to have adventures with his friend Sancho
Panza and quickly gets caught up in mayhem, mistaking windmills for
giants, and hairy slatterns for princesses. He suffers horrible
injuries and at the end of part one is forcibly taken home in a cage.
So far, so slapstick.
What raises the novel
to a higher plane is the unfolding psychology of its protagonist.
Before Don Quixote, novels were about epic heroes who knew what they
were doing and whose principles rarely wavered. Quixote is the first
character in a European novel to question his own motives and collude
in his own deception. Cervantes had read Examen de ingenios para las
ciencias (“The Examination of Men’s Wits”) a ground-breaking
psychological study by Juan Huarte, published in 1575, which
suggested that an imbalance in personality, though dangerous, can in
some people produce exceptional qualities. Quixote seems stubbornly
sure of his visions, but also admits to some wishful fabrication. His
creator is hazy on details, admitting on the first page that he isn’t
sure of his character’s real name or where in La Mancha he came
from. So when Quixote angrily tells a neighbour “I know who I am,”
a world of questions about identity and reality opens up and with it
the idea that nothing in life is what it seems.
The bad news for
readers is that you need to read Don Quixote more than once to get
this. For years Vladimir Nabokov dismissed the novel as a “comic
fable,” and refused to teach it until Harvard made him. Reading it
again, he discovered a “treatise about how meaning gets into things
and lives.” Sigmund Freud was also on his second read in 1883 when
he wrote to his fiancée Martha, “I now possess Don Quixote… and
concentrate more on it than brain analysis.” Was it not true, he
asked, that we are all “noble knights passing through the world
caught in a dream?” Soon afterwards, Freud moved from studying
neurology to psychopathology, hoping to address “the great problem
of how man came to be what he is.”
Cervantes was born in
1547, the son of an itinerant barber-surgeon in Alcalá de Henares,
east of Madrid. He didn’t go to university, but may have studied
with a follower of Erasmus when his family moved to the capital. In
1569 he travelled to Italy, possibly to avoid punishment for a duel,
and fought with Spanish forces at the Battle of Lepanto, where he
sustained three gunshot injuries, one of which permanently damaged
his left hand. On the way back to Spain in 1575, his ship was
ambushed by pirates and he was taken to Algiers and held captive for
five years. Two Trinitarian monks secured his release and his
unending gratitude.
After returning to
Spain, Cervantes found no recognition either for his war heroism or
his ordeal. Denied a pension, he was finally offered a post
requisitioning provisions for the Armada, but his seizure of corn
belonging to the Church earned him excommunication and he was
imprisoned in Seville at least twice. Middle age brought more
failure: between 20 and 30 unsuccessful plays, bankruptcy, an unhappy
marriage, health problems suggesting diabetes. He got work as a tax
collector but longed to be recognised as a poet. In 1590, he applied
for a post in the New World—“the refuge and shelter of all
Spaniards who have lost hope”—and was rejected. A bureaucrat
scrawled on his application, “let him find something here.”
How he came to produce
the first European novel is one of the great mysteries of western
literature. In the novel’s prologue, Cervantes says the idea came
to him while in prison. He wondered how the public would receive it,
“after all these years I have spent sleeping in the silence of
oblivion.” They received it rapturously. Within weeks of its
appearance in 1605, Don Quixote had broken all publishing records.
Seven editions came out in the first year and translations quickly
followed in French, English and German. Shakespeare may have seen a
copy since he and John Fletcher wrote a play, Cardenio—later
lost—inspired by one of its episodes.
Cervantes, who had
signed away his publishing rights, didn’t profit from his novel’s
success. Rather, he got flung in prison again—briefly—on
suspicion of murder. Meanwhile, another writer, Alonso Fernández de
Avellaneda, brought out a sequel to Don Quixote, spurring Cervantes
back to his writing desk. A collection of novellas, The Exemplary
Novels, came out in 1613, followed soon by the second part of Don
Quixote. This time, when the knight and his sidekick take to the road
again, they know that they have been written about. Quixote has a
book by Cervantes in his library and they even meet a character from
Avellaneda’s spurious sequel. The first modern novel thus becomes
the first postmodern one, containing ideas about reality that feel so
current and complex some later readers wondered if Cervantes had come
up with them accidentally. He couldn’t “knowingly” have
produced such a book, said Fyodor Dostoevsky, while, for Virginia
Woolf, “the beauty & thought come in unawares; Cervantes
scarcely conscious of serious meaning, and scarcely seeing DQ as we
see him.”
This year Cervantes’s
death will be marked, as it is every year, by a solemn mass at the
Convent of the Barefoot Trinitarians in central Madrid. Rows of Royal
Academicians will sit in gilt chairs behind an empty coffin draped in
purple and surrounded by four ceremonial candles. The Trinitiarians,
a closed order, dwindling in number, follow the ceremony from barred
recesses behind the altar. Afterwards the dignitaries—who included
Mario Vargas Llosa the year I attended—eat marzipan delicacies made
by the nuns.
There is something
deeply poignant about the presence of the coffin, which seems to
stand for two deaths: that of the author and his creation. If it is
Shakespeare’s language that moves us, in Don Quixote it is the
knight himself, and we mourn his loss as if he were real. “Here, I
am on the brink of blasphemy,” said the Argentine writer Jorge Luis
Borges, in a recently discovered lecture, “but I think that when
Hamlet is about to die, he should have said something better than
‘the rest is silence.’ Because this strikes me as quite bogus
fine writing. I love Shakespeare, I love him so much that I can say
these things about him and I hope he’ll forgive me.”
The language Cervantes
chooses for his hero is simple, verging on clumsy: “he gave up the
ghost; that is, he died.” For Borges, the awkwardness reveals
Cervantes’s grief, “and so he may be forgiven a blundering
sentence, a groping sentence, a sentence that really is not a groping
or blundering sentence but one through which we see what he felt.”
Many in Spain today
still feel sad about Cervantes, about Quixote and the honours that
came too late. The man who wrote Don Quixote spoke not only for Spain
but for all humanity and surely deserved better. “Cervantes had a
hard life and felt unloved, disregarded and embittered,” says Del
Molino, “while Shakespeare, despite the fire at his theatre, made a
lot of money and was celebrated wherever he went. Four hundred years
on, it’s still the same story for both of them.”
And . . . Another cartoon:
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