Dawn

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Friday, June 29, 2018

Thoughts from Galicia, Spain: 29.6.18

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable. 
- Christopher Howse: A Pilgrim in Spain. 

If you've arrived here because of an interest in Galicia or Pontevedra, see my web page here.

Spain
  • Some excellent news about the infamous Gag Law. Spain is returning to sanity.
  • Yet more corruption. This time the other main party: The Valencia Provincial Council President and mayor of Ontinyent (PSOE) was arrested in an anti-corruption operation on Wednesday. 
Life in Spain
  • Summer dating in Spain, per The Local.
  • The reporter and the paper who revealed that a senior PP poltitician had faked her Masters have been charged with 'Uncovering secrets". WTF?
  • Here's a test of how well you  know Spain, used in the process of getting Spanish nationality. I'm pleased to say I did very well. Must make an application.
  • Down in the Canaries - named after dogs, not birds by the way - there's a new island, the 8th in the archipelago. It's a tiny - 11 square miles - rock outcrop, with no paved roads and just 721 residents, called La Graciosa. Here's are a few things someone thinks you might like to know about it. Details of each, below:-
  1. Its beautiful beaches are empty
  2. It inspired Treasure Island
  3. There are no cars - or roads
  4. It can only be reached by sea
  5. It was created by volcanoes
  6. It is ripe for hiking and cycling
  7. Accommodation is scarce - but you can camp
  8. Someone once wanted to build a casino there
  9. It has some of Europe's best diving
The EU/Germany
  • How Merkel Broke the EU. Click here. Or maybe she didn't, after yesterday's 'successful' summit on immigration. 
The USA
  • The smoke just keeps building, doesn’t it? Trump hires Manafort, who is very well connected with Putin’s inner circle, to run his campaign. People close to Putin make clear that they want to do everything they can to get Trump in office because, I’m convinced, Putin knew he would easily manipulate him. Manafort is on the receiving end of loans and payments that mysteriously never get reported on his taxes but instead are laundered through multiple foreign companies and banks to hide their origin. Those close to Trump hold meeting after meeting with Putin allies and Russian government officials throughout the campaign and the transition, then magically, and simultaneously, lose their memories of all of those meetings and fail to report them on the necessary disclosure forms. Coincidence? Not a chance.
Nutters Corner
  • Guess who: We love the countries of the European Union. But the European Union was set up to take advantage of the United States. In his dystopian black and white world: Us competing with you  – fairly or unfairly - is totally justifiable. You competing with us in any way at all is taking advantage of us. Idiocy on stilts
Social Media
  • Stop panicking about a return to the 1930s, says Philip Collins in today's Times. The next political crisis will be sparked by tech giants’ assault on democracy, rather than by populism or nationalism. He might well be right.
Galicia/Pontevedra
  • A formal investigation has begun into the high prices of fuel here in Galicia. I'm not clear what this means but I understand it's 5 years since the first denuncias were made.
  • The new Minister of Development says that he's going review all the AVE high speed train commitments made by the last (PP) government. I think we all know what that means for us. Bye-bye the 'guaranteed' date of 2020 for the start of our link to Madrid. 2030 anyone?
  • Meanwhile . . . This is a lovely bit of (inland) Galicia, if you want to walk, drive, bus, fly or get a slow train to here.
  • Talking tourism . . . Feathers have been ruffled here by the promotion of our coast by a company in León as Costa Farriña. This is a reference to the novel and TV series I'm mentioned about drug trafficking here. It's an accurate description but not a very welcome one. No one talks about that sort of thing here. Except me, of course.
The World Cup
  • So, why is it not a penalty to pull a player's shirt as he's about to head the ball?
  • England: This strange game acted as sleeping pill and wake-up call for England. Gareth Southgate’s B team failed to stir into significant life, and the fans could have been forgiven for drifting off for long periods, yet what they glimpsed through sleepy eyes was that England’s options are not as deep and rich as believed. . . . Januzaj graced a game that bordered on the shameful and sleep-inducing at times. For the first 45 minutes, Belgium did not look interested, showing little desire to score, but simply to pick up bookings. 
  • Germany 1: A German friend told me last night that: During the match yesterday, the TV commentator said: “Ladies and gentlemen, what you are presently seeing is not a slow motion replay. It's the actual pace at which the German team carries out an attack”.
  • Germany 2: A sign that the German team expected to go home early . . . 
  • Spain: Notwithstanding the El Mundo critique - The best team in Russia so far, says one British observer.
© David Colin Davies, Pontevedra: 29.6.18

THE ARTICLE

Nine fascinating facts about the newest Canary Island

Tenerife, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura have a new little sister, La Graciosa, the most recent addition to the Canary Islands family.

Spain’s General Commission of the Autonomous of the Senate has agreed that the tiny rock outcrop, home to no paved roads and just 721 residents, can become the eighth official Canary Island, earning itself its own “legal personality”.

Should the decision have you pondering a trip to this 11 square mile nugget of Spain, here are a few things you might need to know.

1. Its beautiful beaches are empty

“The real gems of La Graciosa are its incredibly empty beaches, such as Playa de las Conchas (furthest from the harbour and arguably the best) and Playa de la Cocina, where near-white sand and aquamarine waters make up for the lack of any tourism infrastructure,” says Joe Cawley, who knows the Canary Islands like the back of his hand. Telegraph Travel’s Spain expert Annie Bennett said there are “just fabulous beaches and a handful of idyllic waterside fish restaurants”. Playa de El Salado is perhaps the best known, over a mile long and home to a campsite.

2. It inspired Treasure Island

The story goes that pirates used the island for shelter from the tempestuous Atlantic Ocean. In the 1760s it is said that a British crew was followed to La Graciosa by a pirate galleon and so, fearing their booty would be captured, buried their gold somewhere on the island, refusing, despite torture, to reveal its location. The story, including evidence found of an Admiral Hawke in the area in the 18th century, bears more than a coincidental resemblance to Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel. Some say the treasure is still buried there today.

3. There are no cars - or roads

Trails across the island are not paved and more like dirt tracks, best to be navigated by foot, rented bike or clapped-out jeep taxi, which are allowed on the island.

4. It can only be reached by sea

So it’s hardly surprising that the island lacks an airport. Visitors must fly to neighbouring Lanzarote then take the half-hour ferry from Orzola.

5. It was created by volcanoes

As part of the Chinijo Archipelago, a series of islands and islets much smaller than the main Canary Islands, La Graciosa has gained Unesco World Heritage status, thanks to the protected Parque Natural del Archipielago Chinijo, established in 1986 (Lanzarote is also included). The geopark helps preserve the environment of the flora and fauna of the islands, as well as birdlife, but was principally created thanks to the islands’ curious volcanic creation - built almost entirely of basaltic materials during three volcanic stages. Unesco says the region is “an authentic outdoor museum”.

6. It is ripe for hiking and cycling

Hiking, trail running and cycling are all available across the arid isle. Because of its protected status, it’s best to stick to the paths. The Canary Islands tourist board highlights three routes, taking in craggy mountains, white sand beaches and hidden coves. The island’s circular route is 20 miles and best completed on a mountain bike. Keep an eye out for views of the island’s tallest peak, Las Agudas, which rises to 266 metres and is popular with hikers. Surfing and kiteboarding are also available.

7. Accommodation is scarce - but you can camp

Though most visitors to the island are day-trippers, the best way to experience the solitary way of life is, according to Joe Cawley, to be one of the few who stay for longer. “To do La Graciosa full justice and sink into a pleasantly vegetative state, a week in one of the basic pensions or apartments is a must,” he says. “Caleta del Sebo is the settlement (one of two; the other is Casas de Pedro Barba) that greets you after a 25-minute boat ride from Orzola in Lanzarote. This motley collection of whitewashed houses and bar/restaurants is connected by streets of sand, and is home to most of the island’s 500 people.” Camping is also available, on Playa de El Salado.

8. Someonce once wanted to build a casino there

There has been a long campaign for La Graciosa to become an official Canary Island, some residents are concerned that any influx of visitors (it currently gets just 25,000 annual tourists), will put strain on the island’s limited infrastructure and spoil its untouched beauty. Investors once plotted to build a casino on the island and link it by cable car to Lanzarote but, rather unsurprisingly, the idea did not get much further than the drawing board.

9. It has some of Europe's best diving

La Graciosa is home to the largest protected marine area in Europe. “Thanks to the diversity of its sea fauna, its spectacular depths are home to unique beauty in all its diving spots, among which there are some suitable for all levels of diving experience,” says the Canary Island tourist board.

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